SalSphere® Even Skin (8894-04)

PID# 8894-04

A time release delivery system for salicylic acid (SA) for gentle exfoliation and skin rejuvenation

  • Evens and smooths the skin through chemical exfoliation tailored for sensitive skin.
  • Promotes healthy, glowing skin and diminishes skin imperfections.
  • Suitable as anti-acne and anti-blemish in washes, serums and lotions.
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Introduction

Cosmetic and dermocosmetics have used the beta hydroxy acid salicylic acid (SA), to repair skin issues for ages, but this benefit came with major side effects such as dryness and irritation. SS Even Skin is a new technology offering a time release of SA, enabling the enjoyment of health benefits of SA without the typical side effects.

SA is a poorly-soluble ingredient and has consistently challenged formulation chemists because of its low solubility and its acidic effect on the pH of both formulas and the skin. SS ES is a revolutionary solution that allows for easy use of SA in aqueous, alcohol-free formulations. The encapsulated SA is designed to be compatible with commonly used, cost effective carbomer-based thickeners to produce clear products such as facial washes and lotions. This technology enables creation of new products in a single step, by adding the technology to the prepared base in an easy mixing process.

SS ES is loaded at 30% SA and can be diluted to any therapeutic concentration desired. In dermatology and dermocosmetics, the technology is best for the treatment of dermatitis, acne, psoriasis, calluses, dandruff, and more. In the cosmetic area, it is recommended for daily skin wash for toning, brightening, scar and pore reduction, excess sebum reduction, blemish removal, and skin smoothing for a younger and brighter look.

Unique Features

  1. Stable & Formulation Ready in water-based emulsions including carbomer-based systems.
  2. Sustained Release, skin-friendly and ideal for consumers with sensitive skin.
  3. Clear Appearance, ideal for facial and scalp treatments.

Technical Data

Appearance @ 20°C Translucent liquid
Applications Cleansers, lotions, and creams, foot care (warts)
Color Amber
Odor Characteristic
SA Loading 30 ± 2
Shelf Life (months) 24
Usage Level (wt%) Cosmetic: Up to 1.67
OTC: 1.67-6.67
Rx: Over 6.67
Storage (°C) Closed container at 12-32°

Evening Out of Skin

SS ES is designed to gently exfoliate the skin due to its adhesive nature. It provides a significant increase in long term exfoliation as compared to free (unencapsulated) salicylic acid from a wash application. In experimentation, it was found that SS ES provides a 20% increase of the exfoliation achieved by free salicylic acid. This difference is a significant one (n=21).

Percent difference of SS ES exfoliation as compared to free salicylic acid. Exfoliation is measured as dye reduction from human in-vivo tests.

Sample Formulation - 11002 - Anti Acne Clear Toner

Phase Trade Name INCI
(W/W %)
A DI Water Aqua
83.22
A Trilon BD Disodium EDTA
0.10
B Ecogreen Glycerin
0.30
B Jeechem BUGL Butylene Glycol
2.00
B Bright Citrus Fragrance Fragrance
0.01
B Symbio Solv Clear plus Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside & Water & Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate & GlycerylCaprylate & Citric Acid & Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate & Sodium Surfactin
3.00
B Linatural Ultra-3 Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Propanediol
1.00
C Witch Hazel Natural USP Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract
3.50
C Trehalose 100 Trehalose
0.10
C 1% Sodium Hyaluronate Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Water
0.10
D SalSphere Even Skin SS Even Skin PID# 8894-04
6.67
100.00%
SPECIFICATION pH= 5.0-6.0
PROCEDURE
  1. Combine phase A under mixing until dissolved
  2. Mix phase B in a separate vessel.
  3. Combine phase A and phase B under mixing.
  4. Add phase C under mixing in order until homogenous.
  5. Add phase D and Adjust pH to 5.5 with HiPure 90 or 20%NaOH.

Sample Formulation - 11003 - Serum w/SS Natural Anti-Blemish & SS Even Skin

Phase Trade Name INCI
(W/W %)
A1 DI Water Aqua
63.10
A2 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum
0.70
A2 Glycerin Glycerin
5.00
A2 Zemea, USP Propanediol
12.00
A3 Camellia Oil Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
1.00
A4 Apricot Kernel Oil Prunus armeniaca oil
1.0
A5 Linatural Ultra-3 Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Propanediol
1.0
A6 LexFeel® WOW Triheptanoin (and) C13-16 Isoparaffin
5.0
A7 Soldoc PG 410 Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
0.70
A8 SalSphere Natural Anti-Aging SS Natural Anti-Aging PID# 8413-11
3.50
A9 SalSphere Natural Anti-Blemish SalSphere Natural Anti-Blemish PID# 8964-03
4.00
A10 SalSphere Even Skin SalSphere ES PID# 8894-04
3.00
100.00%
SPECIFICATION pH neat= 4.0 - 4.5
PROCEDURE
  1. Combine all ingredients in order while mixing using a propellar mixer.
  2. Homogenize using an Ultra Turrax Homogenizer.
  3. Adjust pH to 4.0-4.5 if needed.

Sample Formulation - 11004 - Face Wash with SS Even Skin

Phase Trade Name INCI
(W/W %)
A1 DI Water Aqua
63.65
A2 Ecocerol, USP Glycerin
1.00
A2 Jaguar C 162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
0.10
A3 Rice Syrup, Organic Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract
1.00
A4 Lumorol K 5019 Sodium lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
18.00
A5 AMPHOTESID B 5 CocamidoPropyl Betaine
5.00
A6 Euxyl PE9010 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
1.00
A7 Trilon BD Disodium EDTA
0.10
A8 SalSphere Even Skin SalSphere Even Skin 8894-04
5.00
A9 Grapefruit Oil Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
0.05
A10 Tataric Acid 99% Tataric Acid
0.05
A11 Fragrance Fragrance (Parfum)
0.05
100.00%
SPECIFICATION Trasparent, viscous liquid, pH= 5.5- 6.0
PROCEDURE
  1. Combine PHASE A in order listed in main kettle while mixing with medium prop mixing at 500rpm.
  2. Mix for 5 minutes @20C-30C in between each addition. Mix an additional 15 minutes @20C-30C.
  3. Check pH and adjust if necasary with 20% Lactic Acid or 20% Arginine.
  4. Adjust viscosity with Sodium Chloride.
  5. Stop mixing and store in a closed container.

Sample Formulation - 11005 - Face Wash w/ SS Even Skin and HS SalCool

Phase Trade Name INCI
(W/W %)
A Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum
0.70
A Ecogreen Glycerin
5.00
B DI Water Aqua
60.55
B Aloe Vera Gel (100%) Liquid Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
5.00
B Witch Hazel USP Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract
5.00
C Jeeteric CAB-LC Cocamidopropyl Betaine
15.00
D Linatural Ultra-3 Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Propanediol
1.00
D SalSphere Even Skin SS Even Skin PID# 8894-04
5.00
D HydroSal SalCool HS SalCool PID# 8278-03
1.00
D Calendula Flower in Zea Botanicals Propanediol (and) Aqua (and) Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
1.50
D Grapefruit Oil Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
0.25
100.00%
SPECIFICATION pH neat= 4.5-5.0
PROCEDURE
  1. Mix Phase A together and disperse the mixture into phase B.
  2. Mix until homogenous.
  3. Slowly add phase C, make sure pH is below 5.3.
  4. Add phase D and mix until uniform, homogenize using an Ulta Turrax Homoginizer.

Sample Formulation - 11006 - Foaming Mask with SS Even Skin

Phase Trade Name INCI
(W/W %)
A1 Crodamol ISIS Isostearyl Isostearate
0.40
A2 Jeechem GMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate
0.60
A3 Beauactive Hydroxystearic Acid
0.20
A4 Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside
0.80
A5 Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol NF Cetearyl Alcohol
0.60
A6 Neossance Squalane Squalane
0.40
A7 Stearic Acid TP Stearic Acid
0.30
B DI Water Aqua
18.00
C1 DI Water Aqua
59.78
C2 NATIVACARE 5600 Zea Mays (Corn) Starch
2.00
C3 Zemea Propanediol
2.50
C4 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum
0.75
C5 Amphotensid B-5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine
5.00
C6 Protelan AGL 95 Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
5.0
C7 Lincoserve WpH-LO Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Propanediol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
2.00
D SalSphere Even Skin PID# 8894-04
1.67
100.00%
SPECIFICATION pH = 5.0-5.5, White lotion
PROCEDURE
  1. Heat phase A to 75C under mixing in Vessel
  2. Heat phase B to 75C in a seperate vessel
  3. Slowly add phase B to phase A at a rate of 20% per minute.
  4. Begin cooling the batch to 60C.
  5. Premix Keltrol and Propanediol.
  6. Charge phase C in vessel #3, and heat to 45C under mixing.
  7. Slowly add phase C to vessel #1 at a rate of 20% per minute with propeller mixing. Begin cooling batch.
  8. Once batch is below 35C, add phase D with propeller mixing.
  9. Use an ice bath to cool batch. Once below 20C, add phase E with slow sweep stirring until uniform.
  10. Adjust pH with 20% Lactic Acid or 20% L-Arginine Solution.